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the Wandering Jew

Catch the travel bug

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  • Writer's pictureSam Eisenberg

Expat's Guide to living in Kosovo

So you're in expat and you're looking for a cheap place to live and work. Well, I suggest you come to Kosovo. Aside from the cheap cost of living, there's a lot to see whether it's Europe's ugliest library, the Rugova mountains, or the beautiful mosques and churches that dot the country.

As you may know, Kosovo isn't internationally recognized, which in my opinion, makes it a unique place to visit. The region also has a unique and diverse history, having been under Bulgarian, Serbian, and Ottoman rule, but has mostly been inhabited by ethnic Albanians throughout history. Although predominately Albanian, there are smaller communities of Roma, Bosnians, Serbians, and even, Turkish people. For example; just outside of the capital, Pristina, there is a small Serbian on enclave called Graçanica, which you should definitely visit, if need to get your pork fix. Also, in the city of Prizren, you will often hear Turkish spoken as a kind of lingua franca. You will also find that most of the older generation speaks Serbo-Croatian due to the fact that Kosovo, after World War II, became a part of Yugoslavia.


Prizren City Center

In terms of finding work, there are a number of NGO's that are in constant need of volunteers as well as a number of language schools that you can apply to. Currently, I am teaching Spanish part-time at a small language school here in Pristina. Although if you're seeking a Western salary, jobs that offer higher salaries can be quite difficult to find, so I suggest teaching English online in order to enjoy the full benefits of the cheaper living costs. You should also remember that the work culture is quite different here; and therefore, employers have a different way of treating their staff than in most Western countries. That is to say that if you don't find work with an international NGO, be aware that working here is quite different than it might be in other parts of the world. When I initially came to Kosovo, I started working at an elementary/high school which was an absolute disaster. The salary was quite low, considering that I was doing a lot of work. If you decide to quit your job, I suggest doing so after you have been paid due to the fact that some jobs may try and not pay you; and trust me! I'm speaking from personal experience.


Skendërbeu Monument in Pristina.

Despite having a few unpleasant experiences, you will find that people are quite nice, especially if you're an American. Because of the US/NATO bombing campaign in Serbia, most Kosovar Albanians have a positive view towards Americans and the West in general.


What if you're Serbian?! Most of my Serbian friends initially have felt unsafe and unsure about traveling to Kosovo. Will people hate me? Is it safe for me to travel there? These are among the most common questions that I hear from Serbian people. Although there are some people who harbor resentment towards Serbian people, most Kosovar Albanians whom I have spoken to are open-minded about spending time with Serbians. Two of my good friends who are Serbian are currently studying Albanian language and have spent significant time here in Kosovo; and to my knowledge, they have never been attacked or have felt unwelcome.


My Serbian friend, Niko, and I hanging out in Pristina's city center.

If I come to Kosovo, where should I go? If you come to Kosovo, Prizren is probably one of the most beautiful cities I have visited in Kosovo so far; and in my opinion, it is actually more beautiful than Pristina. I suggest that when you're in Prizren you visit the Kalaja, or the Prizren fortress, which overlooks the city. You can see some fantastic views from the top. Also, Prizren has some of the best food in the whole country as you can try some amazing kebabs. In terms of night life, Prizren is pretty dead due to the fact that most people in Prizren are quite religious. You will often see a lot of women wearing hijabs, so night life isn't that popular.


View of the city from Prizren's fortress.

Other cities that are supposed to be amazing to see are Peja and Gjakova. However, I haven't been to the cities yet, but they will be featured in future articles, so stay tuned! In conclusion, I highly recommend that you come to Kosovo, if you're seeking a wild, Balkan adventure.


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